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Iwao

Guide · Sake culture

How to taste sake

Sake is neither wine, spirit nor beer: it is a rice alcohol with its own gestures. Tasting it well means choosing its temperature, its glass, its rhythm — and letting every sip talk to the plate. Here is how, from the first aroma to the last pairing.

10 min read

Interior of the Iwao izakaya in Marseille, lively Tokyo-alley décor under lanterns
In short

The answer in five sentences

Serve sake at the right temperature — chilled (8–12 °C) for an aromatic ginjo, gently warmed (40–45 °C, the kan) for a round junmai — in a small cup that concentrates the aroma. Always serve others before yourself, take your cup with both hands, and open with a kanpai. Take time to look, smell (rice, flowers, fruit) and taste a small sip rolled across the palate. Then match the glass to the plate: a crisp sake cuts fried food, a fuller one embraces umami. The only real rule: taste before you judge, drink slowly, and talk about the glass as much as you drink it.

The right mindset

Taste, not just drink

Tasting sake is not downing it like a cold beer or knocking it back like a spirit. It is a brewed rice alcohol — rice, water and a ferment called kōji — close to beer in process yet close to fine wine in finesse. Approach it with a wine-taster's attention: pour a little, bring it to the nose, sip slowly. Its temperature, glass and rhythm change everything you perceive — which is exactly what we will unpack.

The first dial

The right temperature

Temperature is the most dramatic dial of the tasting: the same sake tastes different at 10 °C and at 45 °C. Cold tightens and lifts the fruit; heat opens and releases the umami. Japanese has precise words — reishu (chilled), jōon (ambient), kanzake (warmed). The classic mistake is serving everything ice-cold: a ginjo falls asleep, a junmai stays restrained.

Chilled · reishu

8–12 °C. For aromatic ginjo and daiginjo: the cold keeps their floral, fruity notes.

Ambient · jōon

15–20 °C. The balance point where many junmai shine.

Warm · kanzake

40–50 °C. For round, full sakes: heat releases the umami.

The vessel

The right glass

The vessel is no detail: it shapes the nose, the amount and the ritual. Sake is traditionally poured from a tokkuri into small cups — ochoko and guinomi — which keep you serving, and toasting, often. For aromatic ginjo and daiginjo, a tulip wine glass is perfectly accepted today: its chimney funnels the aroma to the nose.

Ochoko & guinomi

Small traditional cups filled from a tokkuri. Ideal for warm sake and for toasting often.

The wine glass

For a fragrant ginjo or daiginjo, a tulip glass funnels the aroma to the nose.

Counter of the Iwao izakaya in Marseille under red lanterns, a tasting moment

The gesture

Serving and being served

In Japan you never serve yourself: you fill your neighbour's cup and wait for yours to be filled. Hold the tokkuri with both hands to pour, receive your cup with both hands too, and keep an eye on the table so no cup stays empty.

The meal opens on a kanpai — never before everyone is served. A light touch of the cups, eyes meeting, and the first sip together. When you are refilled, hold your cup up rather than leaving it on the table. Nothing stiff here — just the rhythm of an evening shared.

The method

The three moves of tasting

  • ① — The eye

    The colour: clear, golden, or milky for a nigori.

  • ② — The nose

    Without swirling: rice, flowers, fruit, sometimes a lactic note.

  • ③ — The mouth

    A small sip rolled across the palate: attack, body, umami, length.

Like wine, sake is tasted in three moves: eye, nose, mouth. At the eye, note the colour — most sakes are clear, some lean golden, and unfiltered nigori are milky. At the nose — without swirling — look for the aroma families: rice and cereal, white flowers, fruit, sometimes a lactic touch. In the mouth, a small sip rolled across the palate reveals the sequence: attack, body, umami, then the finish. That reading, more than the label, tells you what you like.

The vocabulary

Reading a sake label

A sake label becomes a manual once you know the key: the rice-polishing ratio. The more the rice is polished, the finer and more aromatic the sake. Add one distinction — junmai (“pure rice”, no added alcohol) or not — and you can place any bottle. Honjozo is light and dry; junmai round and savoury; ginjo floral and fruity; daiginjo the most delicate. No style is “best”: each calls for its own temperature, glass and plate.

Junmai

“Pure rice”, no added alcohol. Round, savoury, rich in umami — lovely warmed.

Ginjo

More polished rice, cold fermentation. Floral and fruity: serve chilled.

Daiginjo

Rice polished to the extreme. The finest and most aromatic.

Nigori

Unfiltered, milky and sweet. A velvety texture, great against spice.

Golden Japanese gyoza served with a dip, to enjoy with sake at Iwao in Marseille

At the table

Nailing your pairings

Sake is at its best at the table, and its secret weapon is umami: where wine can clash with raw fish, seaweed or soy, sake embraces them. Picture a dial: a crisp, dry sake cuts the richness — perfect on fried karaage or crispy tofu; a fuller, rounder one reaches for depth — it suits miso-glazed eggplant or a simmered dish. Serve the first well chilled, the second barely warmed, and move between bite and sip.

Karaage, crisp Japanese fried chicken served at Iwao in Marseille

Karaage

Crisp Japanese fried chicken: richness and crunch call for a lively sake.

Crispy fried tofu over noodles with spicy sauce served at Iwao in Marseille

Crispy tofu

Melting under a golden crust: a contrast carried by a round, supple sake.

Miso-glazed eggplant with sesame served at Iwao in Marseille

Miso eggplant

Sweet and umami: its depth embraces a fuller-bodied sake.

Conviviality

Rituals and table etiquette

Sake etiquette is less a rigid code than a choreography of conviviality: you serve others, receive with both hands, open on a kanpai. A few nuances complete it — alternate food and sake rather than mixing them in one mouthful, chill a fine bottle in an ice bucket rather than with ice cubes, and finish an opened bottle within a few days. None of it is compulsory; it simply makes the tasting more generous. The best reflex stays curiosity — ask the style, the ideal temperature, the pairing.

The traps

Common mistakes

Most slips come from treating sake as a wine, or as a shot. It is served too cold out of habit, drunk too fast out of unfamiliarity, chosen at random for lack of bearings. The most stubborn belief is that a “premium” sake must be iced and neat, and that a warmed sake is lesser — false: kanzake is an art, and beautiful junmai only open at 45 °C. You learn sake sip by sip; the point is to taste and remember what you liked.

01

Serving everything ice-cold

Cold dulls a ginjo and restrains a junmai. Match temperature to style.

02

Drinking too fast

Sake is not a shot. Pour little, smell, roll the sip. Slowness is half the pleasure.

03

Thinking “warm = lesser”

Kanzake is an art. Great junmai only open at 45 °C.

At our place

Tasting sake at Iwao

At Iwao, 27 rue Sainte in Marseille, sake is served the proper way: chilled or warmed by the bottle, at the counter, under red lanterns, facing the open kitchen. We ask what you like, suggest a temperature, propose the pairing your plate calls for. It is a true izakaya, where the glass is as much a part of the room as the posters and the manga.

New to it? Just say so. The team will steer you to a style — a fresh, fragrant ginjo to begin, a round junmai barely warmed to go further — and show you how to serve, smell and taste it. The counter is the best seat for a toast. The rest comes on its own, from the very first glass.

Discover our sakes

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Is sake drunk hot or cold?
Both, depending on the bottle and season. Aromatic sakes (ginjo, daiginjo) are served chilled, around 8–12 °C; round, full sakes (many junmai) shine warmed to 40–50 °C, the kanzake. Ask in the dining room — temperature follows the style and the dish.
Which glass for sake?
A small traditional cup — ochoko or guinomi — for warm sake and frequent toasts; a tulip wine glass for a fragrant ginjo or daiginjo, whose chimney concentrates the aroma. The wooden masu is mostly festive.
Should you swirl sake like wine?
No. Unlike red wine, sake needs no swirling: bring the cup to the nose without agitating, then take a small sip and roll it across the palate. Too much movement only speeds oxidation.
Can you pour your own sake?
Japanese custom is to serve your neighbour rather than yourself, and to receive your cup with both hands. Not a strict rule, but the heart of sake conviviality: no cup should stay empty around the table.
What food pairs with sake?
Sake embraces Japanese food through its umami, where wine can clash with raw fish or soy. A crisp, dry sake cuts the richness of karaage or fried tofu; a fuller one suits a simmered dish or miso eggplant. It also pairs well with cheese.
How long does an opened bottle keep?
A few days, corked and kept cold: like wine, sake oxidises once opened. Unopened bottles last longer, away from light and heat. Sake is best drunk young, for its aromatic freshness.

Explore

Also worth reading

Iwao's sake from other angles, and the rest of the house.

Going further

More from the Journal

This guide is part of the house notebook, where we write about ramen, sake, table etiquette and Japanese pop culture, one topic at a time. Find every article in our Japanese food blog, and read them glass in hand.

Lucky daruma having its second eye painted

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